Desmond Payne MBE, Beefeater

After fifty years, eight gins, a Lifetime Achievement Award from The Gin Guild, and now an MBE, Beefeater’s Master Distiller Desmond Payne shows no signs of slowing down. Known as ‘Mr Beefeater’, Payne has been at the heart of the gin industry for decades, shaping the craft and continuing to innovate.

Reflecting on his career, Payne acknowledges the long journey but remains focused on the present. “It is a long time, that’s for sure, but I tend to live in the present and concentrate on the exciting things happening today,” he says. Despite this, he holds fond memories of the past five decades, filled with milestones and achievements.

His journey began in the wine trade, working in the cellars at Harrods before joining Seager, Evans & Co., a wine shipping company with a gin distillery in Deptford. As a 19-year-old management trainee, Payne was expected to experience every department, but it was the distillery that captivated him.

Seagers also owned Plymouth Gin, which became the next step in his training. “The sheer mixture of flavours and aromas from the botanicals fascinated me,” he recalls. “There seemed to be such a wider range than appeared in wine.”

One of the most striking memories of his early career was his move from London to Plymouth. “At 21, living on King’s Road, Chelsea in the swinging ’60s, life seemed idyllic,” he recalls. The contrast between the cultural vibrancy of London and the formality of Plymouth was stark. “I had gone from Dylan to Dickens overnight!” His London bosses took pity on him, offering a second-class rail ticket to the city once a month to stay connected with the scene.

Over the years, Payne has been responsible for many highlights in the gin world, particularly during his tenure at Beefeater. One of his proudest achievements was the creation of Beefeater 24, along with a series of other gins that followed. “It is such a terrific time to be involved in gin production,” he notes. “There is a real excitement and buzz around the category.”

Beefeater, one of the most iconic gin brands, owes its distinctiveness to its carefully balanced recipe of botanicals and production methods. Sitting in his office at the Beefeater Distillery, Payne often reflects on the legacy of James Burrough, the brand’s founder. “He’s making sure I don’t tamper with his recipe!” he jokes. The crucial 24-hour steeping process for the botanicals remains integral to Beefeater’s signature complexity and balance.

Creating a new gin recipe is a meticulous process, one that takes time and patience. Beefeater 24 took nearly 18 months to perfect. “You need inspiration from what can be done differently, especially with new botanicals,” Payne explains. “Once the idea is set, it’s about exploring the options to make it happen.”

Over the years, Payne has developed eight gins in the past nine years—an impressive feat considering he created none in the previous forty. This surge reflects the current popularity and innovation within the gin industry.

As for his favourite way to enjoy gin, Payne’s preferences vary. “Gin and tonic is a marriage made in heaven, but I am fond of a well-made Beefeater martini, and I have been known to sip a Negroni or two.” He has also been impressed by the creativity of global bartenders, having judged cocktails from around the world at the Beefeater MIXLDN competition.

So, how does he plan to celebrate his 50th anniversary in the industry? “Well, probably not with my feet up and a nice cup of tea,” he laughs. With new ideas still brewing, it’s clear that Desmond Payne isn’t ready to call last orders just yet.

© The Gin Guild 2018